L'avis 4 étoiles de Daniel
STG Trattoria opened March 2012 in Buckhead in a discreet shopping center not too far from the intersection of West Paces Ferry Rd. and Peachtree Rd. The entrance is somewhat hidden - just walk to the back of the building, away from the road and you'll find it. There's an "STG" sign on the sidewalk next to the driveway of the restaurant's parking lot.
STG is one of the city's latest stylish and chic pizza (and Italian) joints. STG stands for the names of the owner's three sons: Sebastian, Tristan, and Gabriel. The owner is Brian Lewis, who also owns Bocado in Westside. Chefs from Abattoir and Sotto Sotto lead the culinary team.
STG feels more "upscale" and trendy when compared to Bocado, but still manages to maintain a relaxed and casual atmosphere. It definitely looks fresh, sleek, and modern. Like Antico and Fuoco, dining setup is communal.
The space is bright and open, naturally well-lit, with semi-viewable kitchens and floor-to-ceiling curtains. There's a nice (uncovered) patio outside. As you step through the doors to enter the restaurant, you'll immediately be in the "walk-in wine cellar," surrounded by walls of bottles of Italian wine. Beautiful presentation. Wine is ordered off an iPad.
What I like most about the space is the bar-style seating with metal trays installed into the full length of the tables. These trays, designed for the pizza, increase table space and make it easy for groups to share food. The U-shaped table is cool too. It looks like a bar, but you can sit on either side.
In addition to pizza, like Bocado, STG's menu features local and seasonal fare: farm-fresh salads and veggies, fish, pork, quail, duck etc. Most small plates are priced around $9-12 with mains at $16-19. There are about a dozen small plates and a handful of mains at any given time.
While that stuff looked very good, I came here for the main attraction: pizza. So far, I've tried 6 of STG's roughly 9 pizzas. I say "roughly" because their pizza selection can change. Like its aforementioned competitors (and Double Zero), the restaurant uses Acunto wood-burning ovens imported from Naples in its kitchen. These things are the real deal and help to produce authentic Neapolitan-style pizzas.
Expect to spend about $20 for each full-sized pizza. It's best to budget at most 2-3 people per pizza, depending on how many appetizers you get. Here are the pizzas I've tried:
STG Pizza:
Lamb sausage, sweet onion, ricotta salata, mint
Classic Pizzas:
Pomodorini (little tomatoes), oregano, garlic, mozzarella
Tomato, mozzarella, cappicola, basil, chili
Tomato, basil, mozzarella, Parmesan
Spinach, prosciutto, mushroom, Bechamel
Mozzarella, fontina, taleggio, gorgonzola, thyme
The pizzas here are good. All of them. At least the ones I tried. In terms of purely the pizza and its taste, Antico is still my favorite, but STG is right behind, followed by Double Zero and Varasano's. All of the pizzas taste so fresh and flavorful and the crust is delicious -- perfectly charred and appetizingly chewy.
If I had to choose a favorite pizza from the above, it would be the lamb sausage pizza - tender, savory shreds of lamb with mouthwatering globs of ricotta cheese and fresh, raw mint leaves on top.
Second favorite is probably a tie between the cappicola with basil and chili and the spinach pizza with prosciutto, mushroom, and Bechamel sauce. If you like spicy foods, then you'll enjoy the cappicola pizza. It's really not that spicy, but the slices do have a nice "kick" to them thanks to the chopped, oily red chilis.
Antico is the only Neapolitan pizza place that I know of to have these chilis available at a self-serve seasonings bar. I wish the others would follow suit. At the very least, you can probably ask for these chilis on the side if you like them as much as I do.
The cappicola ham is a little bit salty, but that's nature of dry-cured meats. I like the spinach pizza mainly for its Bechamel sauce. It's rich, smooth, and creamy. Tastes so good, but can't be good for you.
You can never go wrong with the Margherita (tomato, basil, mozzarella, Parmesan). It's just a good, classic pizza that everyone can enjoy.
Relatively speaking, the pomodorini pizza is OK. If you like tomatoes, this is your pizza. It's topped with a generous amount of plump, succulent cherry tomatoes. The "four cheese" pizza (mozzarella, fontina, taleggio, gorgonzola) is expectedly rich and super cheesy. Very oily, yet very good too. If you like cheese pizza, go for it.
Service is fantastic, from the hostess to the sommelier. Sara is a good server, assertive and attentive. My only minor gripe about the service is it seems the pizzas take a long time to come out from the kitchen. All of the other nice pizza places serve their pies faster. Not sure what's up with that.
Note if you plan on coming to STG for a special occasion, like a birthday party, and bring your own cake, there is a $2 per person cake cutting fee.